Flying....

It beckons me....despite the heavy "armament" on my back, the rippling liquid beckons me in. It is deep blue and yet, as I lean over the railing on the deck, I see right through it.....I see the fish, I can almost make out the corals and boulders beneath. The water beckons me in. It is early morning, the sun is barely warm, there is a coolness and calm about the air....it is the start of a new day.

And as I hold on tight and take a step in, I fall....the bubbles are everywhere. They tickle me. It's just a taster. I surface slowly, wait for the heads up and then begin my descent. No...I don't feel like a fish. I feel like I am flying....underwater, but I am flying. The surface is my sky and everything is a beautiful, undescribable blue. I love looking up, the sun rays shining in, the ripples of water above me, breathing underwater; it's like meditating somehow....focusing on your breathing...hearing your source of life. There's silence but for that sound...and it's healing. Is that how it was like in the womb?

And then the first fish approach...so close they almost bump right into me. Yellow, green, purple, pink. They look at me...straight in the face, with curiosity, with intrigue. And then, I am suspended in the thick liquid, leaning on my side, slowly with my fins, pushing my way forward smoothly, staring in awe at the underwater granite cliffs, filled with a garden of beauty. I see mushrooms, purple cauliflowers, green fields, thin white sand. I see many Nemo's...I love the movement of the anemones when I come close and wave....everything flows. This is another world. I feel blessed with the health, the intrigue and the chance to experience this....again, and again and again.

I leave you with some of the pictures I took underwater. Some are not great but I hope that, even if for a split second, they make you float.

Ying n Yang

I've heard many times that the best way to appreciate happiness, is by having experienced sadness; recognising day means having lived night. Opposites co-exist. No, don't worry, I'm not going to get all pensive on you. But I really believe this is true...some call it Ying n Yang...whatever it is called, I experienced it last night. I was putting myself to the test by experiencing the opposite of my upcoming luxury on the Queen Scuba.

There were three of us and we had to find a room for one night in this packed out hell hole. A small digression: Don't ever bother coming to Phuket. You may as well go to the tackiest Costa del Sol location, with the relevant tacky, cheap, low quality tourism, mimimarkets, pubs and cheap european food restaurants. Anyway, back to my story....I was quite disgusted to find myself in these surroundings. Really, I am travelling and not everything can be rosy, but I do have standards. The beach is beautiful, I must admit, but what surprises me is how packed out these places always are. Anyway, after 3 unsuccessful tries, we landed 3 spare rooms, on the lowest quality scale possible (yet for twice the normal price). As I walked into my room and shut the door, I found a massive (and dead) cockroach, the size of my thumb, on the floor. UUUUURRRGGGGHHHHHHHHH. The room was on the ground floor, with a door to some back alley with noise from ventilators and who knows what kind of insect fauna. The light was dingy, the sheets looked grey, the floor had dust/hair balls.....I was getting the creeps...but WHAT could I do? There was only this available and for one night. I got a book, scraped the roach outside, opened the window and decided I'd be "sleeping" (if I got any) on my sleeping bag tonight.

I took a quick shower (the door was falling apart), got dressed and met the others for dinner. All was well until I returned to the room at 11PM and found another, much smaller roach in the bathroom and a worm crawling into the room underneath the "garden" door. How do I describe my disgust? I have slept in bamboo huts out in the wild jungle, but urban delights like these just doen't cut it for me. I went to complain to the front desk (I had already enquired earlier, albeit without success, about availability on an upper floor). They gave me a bottle of insect repellent! I went back, sprayed frantically and as I moved the bed over, realised there were two gecko's at the base of the peeling aglomerate wood headboard. I actually like Gecko's...but I just felt disgusted to the point I seriously considered sleeping out on a deck chair by the pool. I returned to reception (now nearly midnight), and calmly explained my predicament. I would not sleep a wink that night and refused to pay for that room in that state. I would rather go find 5 star accommodation at 100$! Thankfully, the owner took pity on me and gave me a key to a room in the "Mansions"....on the other end of the pool and altogether something else. I walked in and instantly new my lucky stars were taking care of me. So yes...ying and yang.....I'm gonna LOVE the Queen Scuba! Speak to you in a few days!

PADI Open Water Diver

I DID IT!!!! I am now a certified PADI Open Water Diver. What is this? you may be asking yourselves. PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) is the most respected and widely recognised diving certification in the world. So much so that they rate diving outlets, programmes and resorts who use and teach according to the PADI standards and method. Coral Grand Divers in Koh Tao is one such 5* certified school.

OK so after the gratuitous sales pitch, here's the deal. I've always been scared of diving and slightly scared of the water. Thinking about it, I wonder if it has anything to do with swallowing a lot of water when waves crashed on me at the beach....or even whilst learning to swim. I enjoy swimming, and I also have a deep respect for the sea and water in general...and have, for many years, thought I would probably become a death statistic if I ever went diving. I thought I was scared of diving; of the water; of the equipment. But you know what? It was ME who I was really scared of. My lack of confidence in water was mostly a feeling I would be unable to learn properly, or remember all the technical information, or forget some crucial step and kill myself. Thankfully, I am slowly proving to myself that my biggest obstacle is usually me...and that when I face up to my fears and get going on a new activity, however scary it may seem, all of a sudden, it becomes much easier...and even fun. I've come to realise how worry, my own and even other's instills insecurity and fear and basically cramps my style.

So, about 2 years ago, I went to the beach with my cousin David, who was going diving. I mentioned how "scared" I was "of diving" and he very gently got me to try out breathing out of his regulator (the thing you put in your mouth to get air from the tank. I was in the shallow bit of the shore...laying down enough to cover my face with water. Slowly and without realising, he held my hand and we began moving forward underwater, whilst breathing from the tank. From that moment on I realised how with some good teaching, practise and self confidence, it could be done. Thank you David.

So many nights have passed since then. I found myself reading up on Koh Tao, also known as Turtle Island, and one of Thailand's best quality locations to learn diving. Off I went to Koh Tao's safest and most qualified resort. I signed up and was shortly found reading my study book until all hurs of the night and breathing out of a tank underwater in a swimming pool and then in open water. The course took 4 days (very intense study and practical exercises), 4 dives in the sea, an underwater DVD filmed of our group going down under (AWESOME!!!!! Can't wait to share this one!) and a lot of concentration. But you know what? Not only did I pass the final exam with flying colours, but the exhiliration I felt being underwater has inspired me to go for the PADI Advanced Diver Certification too! I'm off on Queen Scuba, a 4 day liveaboard vessel touring the Similan Islands, which I read are ranked within the top 10 best dive sites in the world! AND.....I'll be doing an underwater photography module as part of my advanced training so look out for upcoming pictures!

buses, ferries and underwater life

With my newly found group of cave adventurers, and after a very peaceful stay at the floating bamboo huts on the lake, where i also practised my massage skills, I decided it was time to move on. The coolest thing was that aside from Maris, the Dutch girl, there was a middle aged French couple there with the most adventurous spirit too! (Check them out in the picture)

So, after a long wait on the roadside, we boarded the most psychodelic bus I've ever been on! It had fluorescent lighting going on in pure disco style, pink, blue and green curtains sloping down the windows in the shape of a large "u" and thai karaoke music and images coming out of the speakers and tv. It made the three hour journey much fun! They even played my favourite thai song. You know you've been here long enough when you can recognise the local top hits on the radio!

We arrived in Surat Thani, on the west coast of Thailand and got ready to board an overnight ferry to Koh Tao or "Turtle Island"; my next destination for sun & fun. Actually, the real reason I was headed there was to face my fears and learn how to deep water dive with air tanks. I would be doing my PADI Open Water Diving certification thanks to a great experience I had 3 years ago with my half Danish cousin David who helped me realise I could do it. The thought of what lay ahead was encouraging, particularly because some fellow traveller had mentioned the ferry had no beds, so the "overnight" option was sitting on a seat....AGAIN! I dreaded it and even considered sleeping in cheap digs and heading out for a daytime 6 hour ferry the following day. But I didn't. I just wanted to get to the island. To our surprise, the ferry had a deck lined with mattresses... indeed a "sleeper" ferry, but in commune style! It was hilarious, new exciting and fun! We were all going to the same place and there were "farangs" , locals, babies, kids, adults....I even thought there was a dead animal at one point when some guy took his shoes off! However, opening every single window and getting some beer in the system, made it all the better. We were all sound asleep by 11PM...and before I knew it, I was in Koh Tao.

Canoeing down Khao Sok river

Thanks to my guide, I was able to spot and photograph some of these wild animals. Snakes sleeping atop tree branches, sleeping frogs, and locals going about their business! More pictures on my shutterfly page!

Crabs, Spiders and Bats (beware the squeamish)

Interesting title, huh? Well, that's the fauna I experienced inside the Cave in Khao Sok National Park. When I booked myself into the 2 days 1 night on the lake guided tour, I was especially looking forward to spending the night on a bamboo hut floating on the Khao Sok Lake. It looked idyllic and peaceful. I was also loooking forward to the trek through the jungle and the trek up to the viewpoint. Then, there was the "Cave". I kind of let that one pass cause I figured they slipped it into the tour as a filler. I pictured yet another touristed cave, with a well trodden, man made path, flourescent coloured lighting, dampness and more stalactytes etc.

But, here's my lesson about "expecting" things. Sometimes it's better to ask....and sometimes, it's just better to sit back and let myself be surprised. So, let me tell you about "The Cave" at Khao Sok. Communist fleeing oppression hid there during the 1970's cause it is so well hidden and so big. We traversed many a river through the jungle before arriving at the dark cave entrance. We had been warned to bring as little as possible save a bathing suit, a flashlight and some strap sandals to prevent the water from carrying our footwear astray. I followed instructions but, I decided not to bring my flashlight cause I wasn't sure it was waterproof and figured there'd be enough lighting anyway, right....I mean, caves, no matter how dark, are still pretty well lit.

As it turns out, the cave was "wild"!! There was NO lighting, NO man made, well trodden path, and there was A LOT of wildlife within! As we approached the entrance, we took off our dry clothes and gave them to the guide who would "climb" through one of the wet crevices to ensure they didn't get wet. We would be in the cave at least one hour. Flashlights on (except for mine), sandal straps tight, bikini well double knotted, we entered the dark hole. The first thing we noticed was how our path was pretty much the body of water that traversed the cave. It was shallow enough...1st obstacle passed...or so I thought. As we entered deeper, I began to realise this was no ordinary cave. A sudden stench of bad B.O. invaded my nostrils and I thought my partner in front (who I was sucking up light from like a leech) had forgotten to put on deodorant. However as I began hearing comments from others, (including my partner - "ha! what a nerve" I thought!) we were told it was the smell of the crap from the hundreds of bats that were perched upside down right above our heads!!!!!! The flashlights all pointed above and indeed, there they were. The worst bit was that if you lit one of them long enough, it would wake up and fly out....at you seemingly! We would see them all the way through our cave trek...and we were advised we would encounter 4 different varieties. Once I assimilated the fact they would be everywhere, both in body and stench, I did look more closely at them and indeed encountered the pig-looking bat, which does indeed look like a pig due to its pinkish colour and round pig-like snout.

The cave widened and narrowed. It was pitch black, save the light from the flashlights, and it was somewhat hard to keep my balance, walking sometimes in water, pebbles, or slanted limestone. Next up were the crabs. They were small and did not really grab your finger so much. The guide picked one up and I mustered the courage to touch it. I felt at ease...if one decided to crawl over my toes whilst I walked, it would at least not pinch me! (After the ass spanking and general groping I've been subject to, I find myself very aware of people/things wanting to touch/pinch/bite/spank/squeeze me, etc. )

Oh Spiders! I've never really minded them. In fact, after reading Charlotte's Web in 5th grade I became very fond of them and of course, since mosquitoes seem to love sucking blood out of me, the fact that spiders are their death trap was always appealing. However, the spiders I had seen were always small and harmless. The ones in the cave were quite large; some that had antennae like buffaloes, and some the size of the palm of my hand!!! Assured that they were 'mostly' harmless, I quickly moved on anyway. My lack of personal flashlight and the awareness of so many creepy crawlies was making my skin tingle.

The cave had narrowed to a crevice with the water running high and slowly cascading down past pools, crevices and more pools of water. In order to move on, we would need to swim; our toesno longer touched bottom! I looked around at the 10 flash lights within the vastness of this dark, damp cave. The echo of our voices and the sound of the running water kept me company, but the adrenaline running through my body was unavoidable. The excitement and thought that nowhere but here would I experience such a wild adventure, kept me going! My nervousness led way to uncontrollable laughter as I slowly immersed my body in the cool water. I swam....forgot about potential floating animals, and laughed some more...I feel through a few cascades and let the water was fall on my head and trickle down my face. I then had to climb somewhat and turn.....and eventually, I began to see a faint light at the other end of the darkness. I emerged into the sunlight, surrounded by bamboos and twisted tree trunks, more running water, my body wet, my blood pumping fast, a huge grin on my face and the willingness to gladly do it again!

Backpacker travel tips

So I got into Bangkok from Saigon that afternoon at 4PM....and in true backpacker style, didn't really know the next move. I'm learning to go with the flow a bit and not plan too much. I seem to savour the experience all that much more cause I haven't got all these expectations to fulfill.

I did know I wanted to go to Khao Sok National Park, one of Thailand's most beautiful and fascinating parks filled with all kinds of soon to be described wildlife. It's been on my mental wish list for a while. Question was....how to get there and where to sleep? (It's high season now here too)

So as I walked out of the airport, I saw the train station signs and headed there to enquire. Unfortunately, choosing to travel this way also finds you without a bed on the overnight sleeper to Surat Thani (the nearest town to the park). So I settled for the "seat" on the 9 hour long, so-called "sleeper" train. What now? Find a way to perform sleep-inducing rituals. I stumbled upon ritual 1 quite easily...45 minute foot massage place opposite the station. Ritual 2: tire yourself out a bit more by riding a 45 minute train from the airport to the central train station. Ritual 3: Find a shower. What do you want to know? Yes the place was kinda dirty and smelly, and there were numerous flies seemingly glued to the wall. There was enough space to squeeze in with my rucksack. My favourite part? With time to spare and standing stark naked in a pink-tiled stall: finding ways to unpack my rucksack, hang stuff everywhere whilst ensuring nothing would touch the wet floor....or other unwanted areas of the cubicle. I chuckled to myself. My favourite utensil? Using the rucksack's in-built rain cover for the first time...but in the shower cubicle! Thankfully, the water was cold...Bangkok was hot and humid. Ritual number 4: eat something and fill up to prevent hunger pans at midnight....my mistake was getting a pot noodle that was way too spicy. I ended up munching pumpkin seeds and watching some Thai show on the mega screen in the station while I waited for the train.

So here's the scoop. Thai trains have a well deserved good reputation. No bed, true enough, but nothing dissimilar to an airplane ride. The seat actually leaned back further and I managed not one but two white towel-fabric covers to protect me from the insufferable air con (but then again, night-time air con and I were never friends). I got a little evening snack and a breakfast too! I didn't manage to sleep much but I made it in pretty good shape.

I had a 2 hour bus ride ahead to The National Park. Thankfully the bus stop was in front of the station so I didn't have to lug the darned rucksack for too long. Why did I even get a rucksack? I don't exactly go trekking with it...nor does anyone else for that matter. It seems far more comfortable parked away in hotel rooms and airport consigne most of the time....I miss my black duffel bag with wheels. Half the medicine stash I carry is available OTC in Thailand. So yeah...I live and learn and that's part of the fun too! Thankfully, the Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai post office services work wonderfully well. I've spent more time there on this trip than in the last 10 years!

Moto-Taxi

I've discovered a business venture that would work wonders in Madrid....Moto-taxi! So get this, in Asia there is another form of transport called moto-taxi. You get on the back of a bike and it takes you wherever you want to go for a third of the price. It shimmies through traffic and will even carry luggage!!! They're everywhere. It's only a scooter but out here it's the mode of transport. Whole families of 5, groups of friends, (3 or more), overflowing cages with pigs, fishing baskets, you name it...they all fit! Sometimes, you cannot even make out the driver!

My last day in Vietnam was spent on layover in Saigon. I flew from Hoi An and had 6 hours to kill, so I happily offloaded at "consigne" the deadweight of a rucksack I carry around, and headed into town. Much to my dismay, the moto-taxis at the airport were inexistent and I had to sweat it for over an hour on the back seat of some guy's taxi who quite literally took me for a ride. But I made it to our favourite restaurant in Saigon. We happened upon it by chance on day 1 and it became an instant favourite. A yellow wall encircles this lush, lush tropical garden of palms with hard wood tables and chairs dotted around the interior. As I walk in, my tummy starts working overtime; the mouthwatering aroma of BBQ fills the air. I realise that no matter where I sit, there will be a "mini outdoor kitchen" nearby cooking one of the house specialties. Each mini kitchen does it's own thing. I can pick and choose at leisure. Oh BLISS! So there I sit and order my last iced lotus tea, bbq pork on a skewer (YUM!) and some banana flower salad...of course!! For dessert, I order my latest discovery. Here it is: a tube glass filled with layer 1: creamy chopped chestnuts, layer 2: green coloured tapioca pearls, layer 3: green and black tea flavoured jelly strips and all over, coconut milk!! And then, I raise my glass, look around and say cheers! A vuestra salud, Mom & Dad!

On the way to the restaurant, I happened upon a set of moto taxis on a corner and without hesitation, I went to book my return to the airport. I was somehow REALLY EXCITED at the prospect of riding back on a bike through the streets of Saigon with a total stranger! Between sign and sign, we somehow managed to agree to meet an hour later. To my surprise, he was waiting for me right outside the restaurant! I hopped on the back seat, and instantly felt like a local. There are thousands of motor bikes in Saigon (and I cannot stress thousands enough). So much so that cars all circulate in single file cause the rest of the road is for the bikers. So there I was, with my mini backpack on my back, holding tight to this middle aged man, zooming through the streets of Saigon, being able to not just see the parks but smell them too! The drive was exhilirating! I felt ready to board my flight back to Thailand.

hair removal, pedicures and Vietnamese weddings

So I got to Hoi An a couple of days ago on a VERY rainy afternoon. I arrived in my hotel and decided to change into warmer clothes. Come rain or shine, I would tour the city that afternoon. As I got out onto the street I was greeted immediately by two girls on a motorbike who threw 5 different questions at me one after the other: "Hello, excuse me...you are very beautiful. Where are you from?", "when did you get here", "How old are you", "What is your name?" and "Oh...maybe you come to Hoi An to buy clothes ...you come visit my clothes shop?". (I've learnt that one off by heart now cause it's a common approach). So then comes my explanation of how I carry an already overweight 22Kg rucksack and have no room for any clothes. But I get "Oh...you can send home in post office!" hahaha, they're right, and actually I did want to get a traditional Vietnamese dress made and sent home but I decline their offer, among other things, cause I am geting soaked and my jacket, whilst warm, is not waterproof.

So I hit one of the roads leading into the old town and stumble across a lady on a corner, sitting under a beach umbrella, selling drinks and some very welcome plastic raincoats. I buy one for a dollar (well, 15.000 Dong) and think "How lucky to have found her!". Of course, not long after I stumble across 100 such stalls. Anyhow, the raincoat is actually a coloured rubbish bag, to be honest, but it does the trick and keeps some of the water out. I say "some" 'cause now it's really raining cats and dogs and there's nothing I can do about my soaked walking boots and socks...and the water penetrating UPWARDS up my trousers! It had nearly gotten to my knees and I hadn't even reached the town centre. But I was determined. I would eventually find a cafe or something to dry up.

So as I reach the market and stare in disbelief at the life going on there despite the miserable weather, I am greeted by an old lady offering me foot massage. PERFECT! I think. Of course, I am ready for foot massage anytime really but it felt like a good idea to have someone's warm hand hold my cold wet feet! So I tell her I'll be back but first need to get something to eat. I guess she must get that very often because she was very surprised to see me 2 hours later in her booth.

Now, let me explain. I was already wondering where on earth she'd give me foot massage or remove my Mexican Bandido of a moustache in the middle of the market! But curiosity got the best of me and I went. Her stall was No. 4 in the "beauty" section of the market...next to the shoe section. These are actually covered booths...with a window and rails....and a door. They are the size of soft sleeper train compartment, and are made of tin I suppose. The window has no glass (quite common around here) and there is just a flowery curtain keeping onlookers from peering in. So,I start getting my foot masassage by the old lady....and at the same time, my eyebrows trimmed by her daughter Sanh (cause, yeah, my eyebroews also needed some cleaning up). It turns out here they do threading too. A technique I knew from London whereby hair is removed by a sewing thread artfully wrapped around her two hands and moved in a way that it lifts all the hair that comes in it's path. (It's still painful but much better than waxing!).

Anyway, I start sneezing and don't know if it is cause my eyebrows are sensitive or cause I am soaking wet and it's gotten dark and cold. Then she moves on to my Pancho Villa moustache which I hadn't waxed for about 4 months and was nearing braiding length! It hurt...BUT NOW I really have baby skin above my lips. She offers to remove all my facial hair, but I think my look of horror and disbelief was answer enough. Imagine threading my entire face! I'll leave that to the local women. Sanh must've taken pity on me and my drenched clothing because she offered to take me home to my hotel on her motorbike (May I add that I had already promised to return for another dose of painful threading on my bikini line....must I mention I look like a hairy ape!?) As we drive in the darkness, she asks me if I want to come to a friend's wedding with her in 2 days time. Well how many times will I be invited to an authentic Vietnamese celebration in Hoi An? I agreed without much hesitation.

So, I'll spare you the details of the following day's visit for bikini threading. All I'll say is that what began as bikini threading (which took forever thanks to hairy ape here!), ended up in manicure, pedicure and shaved head (much to the shock and disbelief of Sanh cutting away and saying I wanted "same-same as boy" type haircut). So for 28 USD, I had my entire body rid of hair and my nails trimmed. I was gonna look better than the bride at the wedding, at this rate!

Once finished with the hair bit, It was time to get the clothes and shoes arranged. I was taken to her friend the seamstress and her other friend the shoemaker that same afternoon, to measure for my Vietnamese dress and a pair of sandals to match. (This is like The Godfather...it's all kept in the family). I ended up getting a beautiful dark purple velvet dress over creamy trousers. BEAUTIFUL. So after a long walk on the thundery beach this morning, I headed for a fitting of both shoes and dress. Not much of a fitting...It fit perfectly. I was ready and all made up. So I walked out of the shop looking like a new woman....and have never gotten so many compliments on the street in my life! I guess not many foreign women are seen wearing a traditional Vietnamese dress in Hoi An. So there I was....walking past the market...getting smiles from every single Vietnamese woman on the street, and comments of "beautiful" and "same, same as vietnamese lady". The men didn't say much but they also looked. Today I can say that I felt like a top model :-) I got on my friend's motorbike and off we went to the 2 hour dinner celebration over the river.

The account of the wedding will have to come in another installment. But I just got back from the celebration and felt the urge to write about the build up to this event cause ... HOW did I manage to get myself into this one!?!!

A sunny day with Ly (pronounced Lee)

Vietnam has many hill tribes or minorities. They live everywhere but we were able to visit three different settlements in the northern highlands surrounding Sapa. Sapa is very close to the Chinese border and Chinese influence across the centuries of invasion is most evident in the north. Even some of the hill tribes are the same as in China (and in Thailand)...the "H'mong" for example.

The day we visited the H'mong tribes was sunny and warm. We got off our minibus and began walking down a dirt road, downhill towards the valley where we could spot rice fields being cultivated in the distance. Not long after we stepped off the minibus, we were surrounded by a crowd of small women, all wanting to sell us their handmade embroidery on throws, collars, purses, bracelets and what not. My heart was tight....I had already bought some things from the "Flower H'Mong" and was wearing a belt. Of course, it was my turn to "buy from my tribe, buy handmade from Black H'Mong". I was followed by a beautiful and teeny tiny girl, no more than 7 years old I imagine, who offered bracelets. I refused and eventually, she gave up and ran off to another group ahead of us to try her luck again. But then I noticed one woman was walking with us....she didn't have anything in her hands and her basket was near empty. She had spotted us getting of the bus and had talked a little....she kept walking and eventually, once we were alone, she and I got talking. She explained how she had been in school until she was 11, and had then stopped studying to go help her family in the fields. Ly had to learn embroidery, because that is the most important skill for a woman in the tribes, and the embroidered designs and quality demonstrates her skill and worth for marriage. Ly was about 26. She had learnt English from talking to foreigners and wanted to practise. She had known another Spanish girl not so long ago and she was keen we come back to visit her house and taste her cooking and meet her family. She was already married and with kids. We walked and talked of her culture, her life and what she thought about tourism. She was happy to be able to practise her English with tourists, and therefore, she was happy about tourism. But she wanted to learn and share with us. She wanted us to stay in the village and soak it all up. I know I felt like staying.

She told me she embroidered but that she did not want to sell us anything. After accompanying us on our walk for over an hour, she had to detour to her home. She offered me a bracelet and gave me a fabric belt she had embroidered herself. When I offered her money in return, she gave me an emphatic "no!"...and repeated it again and again....she wanted to see me again tomorrow and was willing to go up to Sapa. I didn't know what time I'd be back as we were touring the following day as well and I didn't know the agenda. I was moved. How could this woman think of walking for miles, over hills and rivers, to the nearest town, just to meet me again? She asked me when I would come back to see her? Mentioned I could bring her picture and show it to the locals, who would help me find her. I couldn't answer...I didn't know but I felt like coming back and living amongst her and her people for a while. I was stunned. And tears began to well up in my eyes. I felt so moved that this woman would have taken time out of her day and her busy life to walk and talk and offer me a glimpse of her life without wanting anything in return... but to share and learn. Here I was, offering her money for goodness sakes! And yet, the hard work it took for her to hand make that belt couldn't have been paid....her generosity was priceless and her spirit felt so precious. I felt like I had met an angel... and I began to cry. "Don't be sad" she said...."come back to see me soon". "When?" I thought... I may not remember all the details of our conversation, but I will never forget how the warmth of that sunny day came from much more than just the sun.

I have wondered much since then. I have so much to learn. Indeed, I come from the "rich western world" and yet, at that moment I felt both rich in spirit for recognising such a wonderful human being before me ... but poor as well. Poor because I didn't know how to grow my own food, how to raise my own cattle, how to make my own clothes or build my own home. And poorest because in her situation I don't know whether I would've acted the same...so selfless, without an agenda....pure curiosity and desire to learn and share, not expecting anything in return. But I know we picked each other out from the crowds and that gives me hope.

Moving on...

Mom & Dad left last night and it just gets harder each time to see them go. We've had the chance to travel Vietnam together calmly, taking our time and letting each experience sink in slowly but surely. I've had the luxury treatment for 2 weeks and my days roughing it are about to begin again! I am glad I leave today for Hoi An. I always find it's hard to stay behind in a place when the others leave. There are wonderful memories everywhere, but my spirit aches and I urge to move on rises.

Moving on.....moving on is something I've been doing for a while in search for something I don't know. I think I'm slowly learning not to be too anxious about it. As Rilke said in his letters, (it went tomething like this..)you will not know wverything now... and that is OK and you need to learn to be OK with that because life will unfold at it's own pace when the time is right. (I think I'm going to have to get another copy of Letters to a Young Poet to re-read it - and add to the 10 book library I carry in my rucksack!)

I'm looking forward to some physical, mental and spiritual release in Hoi An...some time to let my mind accommodate all the experiences I've lived over the past weeks and allow me the time and inspiration to let them ooze out into my journal and through my skin. My next entry will be dedicated to a very touching experience I had in Sapa, in two hill tribe minority villages.

In the meantime, Mom... Dad...a million thanks for coming half way around the world, fearing chicken flu, knowing of your delicate health, and still braving nearly 24 hours of in flight service to be here with me, to take care of me and to join me in laughter and tears.

"me alegro bastante" y "tampoco quiero mas aguita"

I see you baby....spanking that ass!

I have A WHOLE LOT to tell about Vietnam and the beautiful and fascinating places we have visited. However, not another minute can pass without a detailed account of what befell me in a shell market today. We were driven miles out to a wooden furniture village selling what were very intricate pieces of Chinese style furniture which, unfortunately, are not in my taste. (I missed taking some pictures just so you could see what I mean). So, as my Parents perused the stores in the hope of finding some kind of treasure, I ventured over the road to see the ladies selling all manner, shape and size of mother of pearl type shells used in wood carvings.

The street was dirty, and not too long....it was, in fact, a side dirt road with no more than 20 or so stalls set up on the floor. But anyway, to the point. I walk into the "alley" and begin observing the different shells on display when I hear what sounds like a shriek from one of the ladies lying on a hammock. Instantly, not only do I turn my head, but so do the other dozen or so ladies in the various stalls. They are ALL looking straight at me. This is followed by laughter and amusement from them all, and needless to say, my poker face, as I try to retrace my steps and think back to what I may have done to instigate such attention. Not long after, the neighbouring sales ladies begin pitching-in all kinds of comments, none of which I can understand. My look of surprise and intrigue is soon answered with one woman's design of a "pear shape" in the air. Oh well... no surprises there, huh?! Anyhow, I smile and nod and acknowledge that indeed, I have a pretty big ass...and I keep walking, thinking that was that. But, oooohhhh nooooo.... suddenly, without warning, I feel a pretty strong spank in the ass! Initially I feel shock. Then I wonder who the hell has slapped my ass! (???) So I turn around to find some woman who has purposely dismounted her bike and, on cue from a nearby sales lady, has decided to touch an object of disproportionate dimension. But no, not content with one sample, she goes for a second swing and spanks me again as I am turning facing her!!!!! I swear I have no words to describe everything that was going through my head at the time..... shock, amusement, laughter, rage, embarrassment, self awareness, fear .... the list is endless! She had a mask covering her face but I could see the amusement in her eyes. But wait! Some young girl next to her decides to follow suit and spanks me too. And then, like coming out of a bubble, a wave of laughter and comments comes crashing in, and I realise people are beginning to approach with full intention of getting their share of spanking action. I have been fed to the dogs, I think! So my instinct kicks in and without doubt, make a quick move and run for dear life the hell outta that place!

As I am crossing the road, I find solace in the peacefulness of those rather horrendous dragon covered, cherry wood lacquered Chinese armchairs and realise my family and the guide are oblivious to the events! I start to giggle...taking the whole thing in... marrying my European and personal value judgement with whatever was going through the minds of these women, none of whom weighs more than 50Kg! Needless to say, it was THE tale over coffee that same afternoon. I have to laugh! You had to be there!