Why I love Chiang Mai - part 1

I've spent the last 12 days floating as if on a cloud, down the streets of Chiang Mai, past my favourite hole-in-the-wall neighbourhood eateries, delighted to be back. Why do I love this city so much? Is it perhaps because it doesn't feel at all like a city and yet offers everything I could possibly need around me to be happy? well, except for my beloved family and close friends, who I wish I could tele-transport here. What are you all waiting for???!!!

Coming back to WaLai Guesthouse has been a real treat. Little has changed; the rooms are still large and airy, I still have a view of the mountains, reception remains the buzzing meeting point for all us massage students who stay here, and the new tropical garden with canopy Aun has built out back makes for an ever peaceful stay. I live down a very peaceful neighbourhood street, or soi as they are called here, covered in trees and best of all, quiet ... except for the howling dog next door, but that just adds to the charm!

The laundry lady on the opposite sidewalk still washes my clothes for less than 1 euro, and the last time I cheked - 3 days ago - the blind massage place down the street still charges 2 euros for an hour's worth of foot massage. Bliss! I've opted to carry myself on foot or sitting atop the gear-less WaLai bicycle. That's OK, Chiang Mai is pretty flat, and what I like best about the bike is the handy little basket attached to the front, where I leave everything I'm carrying and it never gets stolen.

A new pool has opened a block away so I fit in a 40 minute swim every morning just so that I can indulge in sticky rice with my meals or the occasional excess; the other day as I walked back, wet bathing suit in hand, the neighbour had a stall out on the street selling fried bananas. I did a double take! I was not sure whether to be happy for her reading my mind, or weary of what this might do to my thighs. And so I decided to indulge - it's been almost 2 years since I was last here so surely I can forgive myself for caving in to this scrumptious treat. She gave me a bag-ful for 5 baht (10 cents) and I ravished 2 on my way up the stairs and another 3 with wet fingers while I showered - enough to feel guilty and donate the rest to the girl at reception!

I've returned to my favourite Thai stall, only 2 streets away, where a charming middle aged lady who speaks no English and laughs at every attempt I make at Thai, sells the most delicious noodle soup for only 20 Baht (40 cents). It's a chicken broth with Chinese 5 spice mix, a handful of rice noodles, some roasted strips of pork tenderloin, and another handful of bean sprouts, green beans, cabbage, spring onion and coriander. I think I've had it for dinner every day this week ... and I have no intention of stopping my newly developed trend! There's this other lady down that same street who looks like she's occupying the chimney shoot down the alley between two buildings. She whips up a storm on a wok right there, before my eyes, so not only do I know it's nice and fresh, but I get to practice my Thai cooking - visually! I don't care too much for her Pad Thai, but her stir-fried morning glory is still the best in town!